Cuckoo for Kukeri

Photo courtesy of Christin McConnell.

In Bulgaria, kukeri festivals mark the end of the dark days of winter. Kukeri refers to a group of mummers, who perform ritualistic dances in an attempt to ward off evil spirits and guarantee a good harvest later in the year. The tradition is unique to Bulgaria and is believed to have originated with the Thracians.

Towards the end of winter, Bulgarians (usually men) wear masks and costumes adorned with sequins and cowbells (among other items). They wander the streets at night and the clanging of the bells warns residents of their presence. At festivals, they gather in the main square and dance.

At home, you can make a kukeri mask using cardboard, sequins, feathers, and yarn.

Cultural Lesson: The Surva International Festival of the Masquerade Games, which is held in the town of Pernik in January, is Bulgaria’s largest kukeri festival.

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Grass getting tall? Buy some goats.

As some eco-conscious Americans are learning, hiring goats to clear their vegetation is an alternative to using power tools. Hiring a herd can be pricey, but, as Bulgarians learned centuries ago, having your own flock can be cost effective!

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Fresh from the Vine

Bulgarians have been making wine for centuries. The Thracians, a group of Indo-European tribes who inhabited present-day Bulgaria, were known for their wine making skills. Homer and Plato mentioned Thracian “unmixed” wine in their literary works (apparently, the Greeks mixed this dark, red wine with water).

Today, visitors can find the art of wine making alive and well in a typical Bulgarian home (although the European Union may put a stop to such practices). The front garden of many homes are covered with metal pergolas, from which bunches of grapes bob in the sunlight.

Bulgaria is comprised of five major wine regions: the Danubian Plains, the Black Sea, the Rose Valley, the Thracian Lowlands, and the Struma Valley. Bulgarian wines are considered Old World wines because winemakers emphasize conditions such as soil, climate, and topography—collectively, known as terroir—over science. Unique varietals include Gamza, Kadarka, Mavrud, and Melnik.

In the U.S., one can relax by doing as the Bulgarians do—enjoy a glass of wine accompanied by a small serving of sirene. Na zdrave!

Cultural Lesson: In general, Bulgarians drink wine during the cooler months and enjoy beer during the warmer months.

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Cheap Entertainment

http://www.flickr.com/photos/demsone/2719896670/

In a world full of ever-changing high-tech gadgets, reading a book–an actual book–can be a refreshing change of pace. And with a used paperback costing just pennies, who cares if it’s either damaged or lost? Plus, you can recoup some of the costs by reselling it at a used bookstore, at a yard sale, or on eBay. (Another option would be to re-purpose it as a coaster–great for a glass of rakia on the rocks!)

Cultural Lesson: The 19th-century Bulgarian writer, Alekko Konstantinov, penned such classics as “Bai Ganyo”, a political satire, and “To Chicago and Back”, a memoir of his travels to the United States. Today, the U.S. is home to the largest Bulgarian population outside of Bulgaria.

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When Life Keeps Handing You Lemons, Keep Making Lemonade

During these tough economic times, keep making lemonade (literally) if life keeps handing you lemons. Not only is it a refreshing beverage on a warm summer’s day, but it is inexpensive to make. And at your next summertime soiree, you can impress your guests by offering a unique cocktail: lemonade with a splash of rakia. What would it be called? Perhaps “lemonkia” or “limonkia” à la limoncello!
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Bling on a Shoestring

Recently, Stuart Hughes, a British company that specializes in bejeweling gadgets, created a diamond-encrusted iPhone 4 (priced at around $20K).

During these tough economic times, I’m compelled to ask, “Who needs a diamond-encrusted iPhone 4, particularly, when you can have a used, GSM cell phone, encrusted with rhinestones from a pair of Victoria’s Secret sweatpants, for around $35?”

My friend, Brandy, a fellow volunteer, and I were the proud owners of such phones when we lived in Bulgaria. Brandy owned a pair of Victoria’s Secret sweatpants that were embellished with rhinestones and, unfortunately, after a few washings, they fell off. Brandy, being an art teacher, used her sense of creativity to bedazzle her ”GSM” (a term Bulgarians use) with the sparkling diamantes.

Later, during one of my visits to her home in the Rhodope Mountains, we found ourselves bored on a Friday night. So what did we do? Brandy continued adding rhinestones to her phone, while I jumped on board and embellished mine, too!

Today, I own an iPhone 3G; however, I’m not quite ready to take the economic plunge and purchase an iPhone 4. Instead, perhaps I’ll use some Super Glue and a few rhinestones to beautify my phone. Just because the recession hasn’t ended doesn’t mean a girl can’t have a little bling-bling!

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Handle With Care (Or With a Drying Rack)

Some would consider life in small-town Bulgaria reminiscent of American writer E.B. White’s words, “We should all do what, in the long run, gives us joy, even if it is only picking grapes or sorting the laundry.” Instead, I heeded American humorist Erma Bombeck’s less eloquent quote, “Housework–if you do it right, will kill you,” and purchased a used, German-made washing machine (which proved to be one of the best decisions I ever made).

The washing machine’s water supply line was connected to the kitchen faucet. I knew when the rinse cycle was complete because I could hear the gush of water emptying into the sink, followed shortly by the machine convulsing violently as it spun the clothes at what-seemed-like 10,000 RPM. (At one point, I considered contacting NASA and suggesting it use the same technology in the space shuttles’ solid rocket boosters.)

Dryers are a luxury item in Bulgaria, so I decided to “do as the Romans do” and forgo one. I hung my laundry to dry on several of the six clotheslines on my balcony. During the winter, I used a combination of a drying rack and a fan in my kitchen to do the same job (which, incidentally, prohibited my neighbors from inspecting “the American’s” laundry).

And while I longed for the chance to pick grapes from the vines growing in my friends’ gardens, instead, I could be found in my Communist-era apartment doing…well…laundry.

In the U.S., I continue the tradition by air-drying most of my clothes. Rather than shrinking my clothes, it reduces my electric bill!

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A Blown Fuse = Homemade Booze

As I write this blog from my home in Dallas, watching ominous clouds move across the dark sky and lights flickering above my head, I can’t help but remember the first time my electricity went out in Bulgaria.

It was late (probably past most people’s bedtime) when it happened. I had learned how to replace a fuse, but, because the fuse box was antiquated, I decided to ask for reinforcements. I grabbed a flashlight and rushed to my neighbors’ apartment. (I knew the stairwell would be dark because it didn’t have any lighting fixtures.)

My neighbors were a sweet, older couple who never hesitated to help me. The husband answered the door, wearing a flannel shirt, long underwear (or ”long john” bottoms), and slippers. I explained in simple Bulgarian that my electricity was out, while peering over his shoulder and realizing their electricity was working. He said he could help and would be at my apartment within a few minutes.

Moments later, I was surprised to see him at my doorstep wearing the same outfit. (I had assumed he would change.) I handed him the flashlight and a chair, so he could reach the fuse box. Once he was perched on the chair, he turned to me and asked, ”Can you hold these?” while reaching for a pack of cigarettes and a lighter in his shirt pocket. I replied, “Yes,” and waited patiently while he examined the fuse box (and wondered if smoking a cigarette would calm my nerves).

Carefully, he replaced a fuse and, voila, I had electricity!  I thanked him profusely and he went home.

Shortly thereafter, I heard my doorbell ring. My neighbor had returned and offered me some extra fuses and a bottle of homemade cherry wine.

His gesture warmed my heart…and, eventually, the wine calmed my nerves!

Cultural Lesson: A popular Bulgarian mixed drink is an oblak (which means “cloud”). It’s made from equal parts mastika (which is similar to Greek ouzo, not Greek mastika) and menta. The drink is refreshing during the summer, but having too many may lead to cloudy judgment!

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A Drop of Golden Sun

Unlike their Greek neighbors to the south, Bulgarians do not use olive oil in their cooking. Instead, they take advantage of the country’s high yield of sunflower crops and use sunflower oil (they snack on sunflower seeds, too). According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, in 2005, Bulgaria ranked eleventh worldwide in the production of sunflower seeds.

In the U.S., sunflower oil is a less expensive alternative to olive oil. Also, sunflower oil is comprised of monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, which help lower high cholesterol and lower the risk of heart disease.

Cultural Lesson: Bulgarians combine sunflower oil and red wine vinegar to create a light and refreshing dressing for Shopska salad.

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Turn Out the Lights, the Party’s Over

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jrguillaumin/ / CC BY-ND 2.0

During the ongoing economic crisis in the U.S., many Americans have been living on reduced budgets.

In Bulgaria, I observed my friends and neighbors turning off lights when exiting rooms. Eventually, I started doing the same; however, not only did I turn off lights, I unplugged my laptop, TV, and lamps when they weren’t in use.

Today, back in the U.S., I continue to turn off lights when exiting a room because, let’s face it, the party’s over and anything I can do to reduce the electric bill–not to mention conserve energy–is beneficial. Perhaps I should start using candles instead of light bulbs!

Cultural Lesson: Many Bulgarians celebrate their “name day” (the feast day of the saint after whom they are named) in addition to their birthdays. Usually, they acknowledge the day by lighting a candle at a local church and having a family meal.

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